HVAC stands for heating, ventilation, and air conditioning. It is a system that provides different types of heating and cooling services to residential and commercial buildings. Its function is to provide thermal comfort, humidity control, and acceptable indoor air quality.
Most homes and smaller commercial air conditioning systems circulate a compressed gas refrigerant in a closed "split" system to cool and condition inside air. The refrigerant must be re-cooled and condensed, and outside air is the most often used to accomplish this. The term "split" means that components are divided into inside and outside portions instead of being together in a "package" unit. The refrigerants, widely recognized by the trademark "freon" (a registered trademark of the DuPont company for refrigerants), help calm and dehumidify the inside air. In a "forced air" system, an internal blower circulates the conditioned air through ducts to the rooms where the cooler air is needed. The air ducts generally run either below the ceiling and inside the rooms (conditioned air) or in the attic (unconditioned air). An outside fan pulls air across the external parts of the system to cool and condense the refrigerant.
ENERGY STAR is a program created by the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to help businesses and individuals make energy-efficient purchases. This program places the ENERGY STAR label, a small blue and white logo, on items that meet superior energy efficiency standards. This label provides an easy way for consumers to identify quality, high-efficiency products.
The benefits of air conditioning are that it provides a comfortable environment at work or at home throughout the seasons: Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter. An Air Conditioning unit can have two functions: heating/cooling and humidity control. With an auto changeover switch on most new units, you set the temperature, and the unit will cool or heat as required automatically.
Most systems have a lifetime of 10 to 15 years, with gas furnaces lasting 20-25 years. As your equipment gets older, its efficiency can decrease dramatically. You may notice that it gets noisier and needs repairs more often. If you live near bodies of water or the ocean, your system's life expectancy may be drastically shortened due to the harsh environment. If your system is over ten years old, you should have your system checked for maintenance or replacement.
A Heat Pump is an all-in-one heating and air conditioning system that works year-round to keep you comfortable. During warmer months, a heat pump works as a standard air conditioner. It extracts heat inside the home and transfers it to the outdoor air. In colder weather, however, the process reverses—the unit collects heat from the outdoor air and transfers it inside your home. Even when the air outside feels extremely cold, the air still contains some heat. The heat pump pulls the heat from this cold outdoor air and sends it inside to warm your home. When there's not enough heat in the outside air to meet the demand of the thermostat setting, an electric heater supplements the outdoor air to warm the home. Extremely efficient, this process produces two to three times more heat than the energy it uses. However, keep in mind that if you do not use much heat and are thinking about replacing your system, a heat pump is more expensive to purchase upfront, and you will only receive a return on the heating portion of your investment when the system is in heat mode. Additional electrical requirements may also come into play when switching to a straight cool/electric heat system.
An air handler is usually a large metal box containing a blower, heating or cooling elements, filter racks or chambers, sound attenuators, and dampers. It usually connects to a ductwork ventilation system that distributes the conditioned air through the building and returns it to the AHU. In some instances, with a ductless mini or multi-split, the air handler may NOT require a duct system at all, hence the name ductless.
BTU stands for British Thermal Unit, which measures cooling or heating capacity; 1 BTU is the amount of heat required to raise (or lower) the temperature of 1 pound of water to 1 degree Fahrenheit. There are 12,000 BTUs in 1 Ton of Cooling.
When you schedule your regular maintenance visit with a qualified heating technician, they will test your system to ensure it runs at optimal levels. However, there are some ways you can determine whether or not your system is working efficiently on your own. Abnormally high heating bills indicate that your system is running at low-efficiency levels, but keep in mind that how well your home is insulated and sealed and whether your filters are clean will also play a role in heating costs. You can also tell by how warm your house stays throughout the winter. If some rooms are colder than others, or if you turn up the thermostat more often, your heating system may need to run more efficiently. Check your thermostat setting. Is your heating system achieving the desired temperature setting you are requesting on the thermostat? If not, call one of our HVAC professionals to inspect and test your heater.
Five main questions need to be considered when deciding to either replace or repair your heating and cooling system:
A ductless mini split system is composed of an indoor air handler/evaporator (fan coil), an outdoor condensing unit, and an approximate 2.5-3" conduit that accommodates the power (wiring), refrigerant line sets, and a PVC condensate line (drain). s an indoor fan, referred to as the head, and an outdoor compressor unit. Depending on your project's needs, many air handler/evaporator (fan coil) styles are readily available. Ductless units can be 1:1 Single mini-split or Multi-split systems that can heat/cool multiple rooms.
Ductless split systems can replace a traditional central ducted system or be used in addition to a central ducted system. It works like a conventional air conditioner or heat pump, using an outdoor condensing unit, an indoor air handler/evaporator (fan coil) with an outdoor condenser attached to refrigerant line sets, and a condensate drain line. The condenser is installed outside the home or business, typically on a code-approved surface. The conduit then runs from the outdoor unit to the individual room within your chosen structure, even an attic or garage. Depending upon the system design, wall-mounted interior units, ceiling-mounted units, recessed fa coils, and floor-mounted air handlers are installed and secured in the appropriately desired spaces to control cooling, heating, and humidity as needed and designed. One or a series of indoor units and refrigeration lines transfer the cooled air from the outdoor condenser to the indoor units of your choice. It works in reverse with heated air in the winter. Units can be placed in any room you like, and because each unit is individual, you control the specific temperature in that room instead of setting one thermostat for the entire house. As a result, you save money by cooling or heating only the space you are using. One of its most significant advantages is TRUE ZONING!
Generally, the sound generated by a ductless air handler (sometimes referred to as a head) is equivalent to whispering in a library (between 21 and 30 decibels). The sound from an outdoor unit is more like normal conversation (60 decibels) but is less than a conventional air conditioning condenser.
Fuses and circuit breakers should not blow or trip. Check the breaker in your electrical service panel to identify which areas in your home/office the tripped breaker supplies service to. Check to see if the breaker feels warm to the touch. (NEVER touch wires or wire connections in your service panel. High voltage is present) Breakers should not be warm or hot to the touch. If the breaker is warm/hot to the touch, this could be an indicator of a weak breaker. Contact a licensed electrician. Should the breaker feel ok to the touch, you could reset the breaker or replace the fuse. If the breaker or fuse trips/blows again, you must contact a licensed AC contractor like ourselves to diagnose the problem safely and correctly. An issue could be with a loose electrical wire; the unit could have shorted to the ground, or the compressor could have failed. Electricity is nothing to play with- ALWAYS use a licensed electrician or AC contractor as indicated.
First, disconnect any additional devices that may have caused the breaker to overload and trip. Breakers are mechanical devices and must be turned off before turning back on. Remember, this may require several attempts. If this fails to reset the breaker or the breaker feels "Sloppy" when resetting, there may be a more serious problem. Call a licensed electrician.
Yes. This is a common occurrence when large motor/compressor loads start. These devices cause a minor momentary voltage drop, which is demonstrated by the blinking of your lights. This has no adverse effect on the electrical equipment within your house.
This could mean one of two things. 1. An intermittent chirp is probably an indication of a defective smoke detector. 2. A consistent chirp indicates a low battery condition, and the smoke detector requires a new battery.
Furnaces are rated by the Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) ratio, the percent of heat produced for every dollar of fuel consumed, or how efficiently a furnace converts gas into heating energy. Its AFUE rating is measured as a percentage. Like the miles-per-gallon rating on your automobile, the higher the AFUE rating, the lower your fuel costs. An AFUE of 90% means that 90% of the energy in the fuel becomes heat for the home, and the other 10% escapes up the chimney and elsewhere. According to the EPA- AFUE doesn't include the heat losses of the duct system or piping, which can be as much as 35% of the energy for output of the furnace when ducts are located in the attic, garage, or other partially conditioned or unconditioned space. All furnaces manufactured today must meet at least 80% AFUE in the south and 90% in the North. If your furnace is 10 – 15 years old, it may fall below the current furnace minimum and waste energy- costing you money. When shopping for high-efficiency furnaces and boilers, look for the ENERGY STAR® label. If you live in a cold climate, investing in the highest-efficiency system usually makes sense. In milder climates with lower annual heating costs, the extra investment required to go from 80% to 90% to 95% efficiency may be hard to justify. This doesn't mean you should only select a furnace based on its AFUE rating. The efficiency rating is just one factor when looking for a new furnace.
Two-stage heating means the furnace has two levels of heat output: high for cold winter days and low for milder days. Since the low setting is adequate to meet household heating demands 80% of the time, a two-stage unit runs longer and provides a more even heat distribution.
A few apparent signals let you know when it's time to upgrade your heating system. Frequent repairs, recent spikes in utility bills, and inconsistent temperatures in the home are a few warning signs that it's time for a new heater. But if you've had the same heating system for twenty years or more, talking to an HVAC contractor about having it inspected would be a good idea to determine if it's time for a heater replacement. Even if your old heater has worked without problems for years, a professional heating technician is trained to detect any possible operation or safety issues that indicate the system needs to be replaced. If you are concerned about your heating costs, you should talk to a heating professional about other options. Call us now to schedule a checkup of your system!
Hiring an HVAC contractor for professional advice is the best approach when you are in the market for a new heating system. Different types of heaters work better in some climates than others. Also, consider the available utility services in your area. Not all areas offer Natural gas or propane. Likewise, not all homes have sufficient electrical requirements to change from a heat pump to electric heat. Upon completing a series of quick questions and a survey of your home or business, our Comfort Consultant can assist you in choosing a system that meets your heating needs. Give us a call, and let's get started!
Furnace technology has advanced significantly in recent years. Modern furnaces are designed to provide more even and efficient heating than past furnaces, impacting how your system operates, sounds, and what you notice about your system. To better regulate temperatures and airflow, modern furnaces move more air over the heat exchanger than older furnaces. The air from your furnace registers may not seem as warm as your old furnace's, but overall airflow is improved. Better airflow means higher comfort. Also, new furnaces are designed to integrate with high-efficiency air conditioners, so furnace blowers are more robust to accommodate add-on cooling. Since cold air is much heavier than warm air, your system needs a boost from the blower to deliver cool air throughout your home. If you have an older home, this performance boost could produce unfamiliar sounds because air duct systems were originally designed for heating only. To minimize sound levels, choose a variable-speed product that automatically changes speeds to meet the airflow needs of both heating and cooling cycles.
You may find the filter in your home or business very little critical, but you should! There are three ways air can get filtered) through your AC filter, 2) it will get filtered through the AC coil, and 3) it will get filtered again through YOURS and YOUR FAMILY'S lungs! Furnace manufacturers put inexpensive fiberglass filters into their furnaces to remove airborne particles that might damage the fan and the heating coil. Particle buildup can also decrease the efficiency of your furnace, as the furnace has to work harder to pull air through the return. More expensive filters can also improve the air quality in your house by removing pollen, bacteria, and mold spores from the air. Don't let YOUR lungs be the filter for your air conditioner! Use the maximum efficiency filter designed for your system. This is especially important if you or someone in your family suffers from allergies or respiratory illnesses. If you do not know which filter that may be, ask us, and we will gladly point you in the right direction!
Check the documentation that came with your furnace for filter size information. Consult with our factory-trained technicians regarding the efficiency of the filter needed and whether that efficiency is compatible with your furnace's unit. Too high an efficiency, in some models, can cause too high a static pressure for the motor and can cause premature motor failure.
Filter efficiency refers to the percentage of airborne particles that the filter removes. This is different from the fuel efficiency of your furnace (commonly measured as the AFUE). You can choose a high- or low-efficiency filter for your highly fuel-efficient furnace. (Note, however, that failing to change/clean your filter regularly can reduce your furnace's fuel efficiency.)
Check the documentation that came with your furnace. Recommendations vary based on several factors: the type of filter that you use, how many pets you have, whether anyone in your home has allergies, etc. If you use disposable fiberglass panels or electrostatic panel filters, you should change them anywhere from once a month to once every three months. Pleated filters generally last from 3 months to 6 months; again, always check your filter monthly, no matter what type of filter you use. Filters are inexpensive and easy to change, so there is little reason to wait. If you don't change or clean your filter often enough, it can get clogged with dust and other airborne particles, forcing your furnace to work harder to maintain airflow. This will reduce your furnace's efficiency and can cause damage.
It is a temperature-sensitive device that controls and regulates the temperature in a space for systems such as a furnace, air conditioner, or both. When the indoor temperature drops below or rises above the thermostat setting, the device initiates or terminates either the heat or cooling modes, depending upon the thermostat setting and temperature set point. When prompted, your furnace or air conditioner runs to warm or cool the house air to the setting you selected for your family's comfort.
There are five basic types of automatic and programmable thermostats:
Most range in price. Call and ask us which is best for you. Think thermostats don't matter? Think Again! Thermostats control half of your home's energy use—more than appliances, computers, stereos, and lighting combined!
Indoor air quality (IAQ) refers to the air quality within and around buildings and structures, especially as it relates to the health and comfort of building occupants. We spend most of our time indoors, so breathing healthy air where we live, work, and play is critical. Indoor air pollution has the same negative effects as environmental pollution. Ask us how to identify and restore the indoor air quality in your home or office.
Both products effectively remove harmful elements from the air. Still, UV Air Purifiers remove airborne germs, bacteria, and mold, while filtration removes harmful particulates that become airborne.
UV light can be harmful, just as the sun's can be when someone is exposed for too long. One should neither look at nor touch a UV light bulb while it is on. Fortunately, when the UV light system is installed in your HVAC system, there is no direct or harmful exposure to you or your family. Remember to power off your purifier before replacing the lamps, and do not look directly at a powered lamp.
Your UV Air Purifier requires little maintenance. Depending on the model, you should replace the bulb once per year or once every two years.
MERV is an acronym that stands for Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value. What is a MERV Rating?MERV Rating is a filter comparison system designed by an industry group called the American Society of Heating, Refrigeration, and Air-conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE). Simply put, it's a rating scale designed to allow consumers to compare the performance of one filter to another easily. Why is there a MERV Rating? It is designed to measure a filter's ability to capture and hold particles and pollutants. The higher the MERV rating, the more particles – dust mites, pet dander, air allergens, etc – your filter will remove from the air. Of course, screening out more particles from your air makes your air handler work a bit harder, so you may see a modest increase in power consumption by your air conditioning or furnace unit when choosing a higher MERV Rating. How does a MERV Rating benefit you? Matching the proper MERV rating to your needs will improve your home's air quality and extend your furnace's or air conditioner's life.
The life of your filter depends on your environment and the type of filter you have installed. Simply put, there is no concrete answer to this question. Certain things, such as:
If several of these factors sound familiar, you'll likely experience a quicker loading of particles on your filters and will have to change them more often. A good rule of thumb is to check your filter every month. It is time to change your filter if you can hold the filter up to a light and not see through it. At an absolute minimum, you should change your filter every three months. A clean air filter will also prevent dust and dirt from building up in the system, which could lead to expensive maintenance and utility bills.
Modern central heating and air conditioning systems generally have the filter as close to the blower unit as possible. The filter(s) can be located at the base of the air handler/furnace unit, in the cold air return duct in your ceiling or your wall. Remove the grill or box cover holding your filter in place. Remove the dirty filter: Dispose of the dirty filter in a bag to contain the dirt. Install: Install the new or cleaned and dried air filter with the airflow arrow pointing toward the blower. Record the date and wash or change the filter within the recommended period. If you experience higher dust levels in your home due to outside air, construction, or dry weather changes, you may need to change or wash your filter more frequently than the recommended period. For questions or concerns about the location or installation of the filter, contact the HVAC manufacturer or call us. As a reputable HVAC contractor, we can make recommendations that are right for both you and your system.
There is no one-size-fits-all answer. The frequency at which one should clean or change their A/C system's filter is highly dependent on many factors:
Always start by checking your system's filter(s) once a month. If your home/office has remote filters in the wall/ceiling, remember to replace them as indicated. For best practice, always follow the filter manufacturer's recommendations for cleaning or replacement. If you need clarification, please ask our trained service technicians. We can help take care of your new heating and cooling system. Enroll in our Service and Maintenance Program, and our Customer Care Specialists will send a technician to your home when it is time to check the whole system per manufacturer's guidelines to make sure it is safe to use and performs at peak efficiency while they are there, they can check, clean and replace your filter, if available.
You wouldn't buy a brand-new car and expect to never have to put air in the tires, change the oil, or check for unusual noises, would you? In the same way, an automobile requires periodic maintenance for optimal performance, and a qualified technician should regularly inspect a home's comfort system.
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